Being a grom. It was fun!

Dear Diary,

On the weekend I went for a surf. It was fun. I surfed for 4hrs then went to the bakery and ate a pie. It was yum! On Sunday I played soccer then went over to my friends house. I can't wait till next weekend so I can go surfing heaps again.

From Mitch

Excerpt school diary Year 4, circa 1998

Not much has changed in those 11 years, apart from the playing soccer bit. Being able to surf again after 6 weeks of sitting around and doing nothing, has given me a new stoke on bodyboarding and I feel like a grom again every time I hit the water. 

It makes me want to surf as much as possible - because I don't know when I might suddenly have to stop. 

Being so young and naive meant you could go surfing for hours upon hours with no sunscreen on, no food in your stomach and not a worry in the world outside of the water. Looking back on those memories of being a grom, I know I didn't take shit for granted but I certainly didn't appreciate how amazing it is to have that freedom and carefree life.

From now on i'm going to appreciate (more than I previously have) the simple things in life such as being able to go for a surf wherever and whenever I want. 

the good life...

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